2018 Fruit Tree Grafting Workshop

Sunday, August 26th, 2018

Grafting Workshop 2018fruit tree grafting workshop central Dunedin

learn how to graft your own fruit trees

how to graft new trees and old trees

take home three grafted trees planting and care instrction also given

you will receive: three apple tree rootstock (m106 or m26) bag and saw dust for packing of rootstock, grafting tape, a choice from a large range of apple tree cuttings to graft with (delicious,disease resistant heritage varieties)

you can bring your own cuttings to work with (instructions provided on registration) 1-4:30pm 2nd Sept 2018

tea provided

tutor : jason ross : www.habitate.co.nz

$50 – bookings essential – additional rootstock $5 email: jason@habitate.co.nz 0272273004

bring: warm clothes, gloves sharp flat bladed knife (such as OPINEL #7) sequateurs,loppers, saw apple tree cuttings to graft (optional)

Edible Forest Gardening – Home Garden Essentials, 2018

Wednesday, March 21st, 2018

Backyard Forest Gardening I was contacted by Debby Luquette, a Master Gardener with the Pennsylvania Extension Service in the USA, for permission to use my photos for the introductory talk on edible forest gardens reproduced below (Click the link for slides).

It is interesting that she places forest gardening in the context of North American wild plants.

Forest Gardening Debby Luquette HGE March2018 SLIDES (LARGE FILE)

Edible Forest Gardening – Home Garden Essentials, 2018

Imagine this is the spring of 1491. Imagine what this landscape would look like. Imagine the plants would be here.

Are you thinking that most of the land would be covered in trees? What kind of trees? By some estimates, 40% would be chestnuts, the tall, straight American chestnuts, not the Chinese variety, which has a shorter, more sprawling habit. There would be a lot of oaks, too. Here and there a persimmon would find its way to the canopy. Along the banks of streams, pawpaws would be reaching for light at the edge of the forest. West of here, blueberries would occupy the drier, rockier soils of the mountains. Animals took advantage of the bounty of food available- deer, turkeys, grouse, bears, squirrels and many other creatures.

This may be familiar to us as the assortment of food that the Native Americans contributed to the first Thanksgiving, along with corn, squash, beans and a few other cultivated annual plants. What would that tell us about how the Native Americans sustained themselves before European agricultural practices changed the landscape? In fact, environmental anthropologists speculate that the Indians actually cultivated the forest garden using techniques such as slash-and-burn, cutting openings in the canopy to encourage regeneration of plants they used for food, fiber and medicine.

Today there are people who are studying the benefits of this type of forest gardening, and beginning to establish these gardens themselves. The purpose of a forest garden is implied in the landscape of 1491.The forest is maintained to grow food, medicines and other useful products. But the scale of a suburban backyard is a lot different, and consequently, because of the size constraint, it requires that such a garden should be thoroughly planned. A small, homestead forest garden can even be grown on less than an acre of land. Obviously, we won’t grow a ‘forest’ on less than an acre, but we can bring together elements of a forest that fit the available space and the desired food plants. There won’t be room for too many trees, but there will be room for shrubs and perennials.

To figure out how this could be accomplished we need to look at the form and function of a forest. Since the colonial days after most of the original forest in eastern North America has disappeared, a forest develops on a piece of land that is disturbed, generally by farming, and left to grow back. It goes through a process ecologists call succession, a process taking several stages and a few decades. The forest is the last stage of succession, when mature trees occupy as many spaces as they can. This creates shade that makes it difficult for plants that are not shade tolerant to thrive. The shade tolerant subcanopy and shrubs, fill in spaces between trees. Groundcover, mostly ferns and perennial herbs, occupy the remaining space. This forest remains, regenerating itself unless some disturbance opens a gap. In the post disturbance gaps, fast growing opportunistic trees and shrubs get a chance to grow for awhile, before the forest canopy closes in again. This is what we try to recreate in the forest garden.

As one type of vegetation replaces another through the successional process, soil and water dynamics are also changing. In a forest, organic matter and a network of living roots holds soil and retains water. Soil microflora – nematodes, fungi and bacteria – decompose complex organic matter and help distribute it, making it available to tree roots.  Undisturbed forest soil has been drastically altered by agricultural practices, not only removing the water retention ability of the soil, but also disrupting healthy communities of microflora. Organic matter has largely disappeared from the soil, leaving no food for the soil microflora.  The natural process of ecological succession restores much of the soil health.

Forest gardens generally aim at maintaining a post disturbance dynamic, where the fast-growing, sun-loving opportunistic species of food plants grow alongside a stand of slow-growing, mature forest trees. Building and maintaining a forest garden restores much of the water retention ability and soil microorganisms. But instead of leaving the community of plants that develops to chance, growing from seeds that find their way to the plot of land, the forest gardener deliberately chooses the desirable trees, shrubs and perennials and their placement. He or she then encourages their growth by removing the unwanted species – weeds – that are also trying to take advantage of a disturbed spot. Re-shaping the land with swales and patiently nurturing desired plants with mulches, first from an outside source and eventually from the garden itself, develops water holding capacity and a healthy soil microflora.

Have you heard the term ‘permaculture’ before? The word is shortened from permanent culture, that is, cultivating an area with perennials. It becomes  is a system of decision making with the goal of building healthy soil, and a healthy ecosystem. Once an area is planted in perennials, there is minimal disturbance, so the initial planting should be well designed, choosing plants that complement each other in their function and form. Edible Forest Gardening is the epitome of this concept, In fact, it is the most practical form of permaculture for the Eastern US, where a forest is the vegetation form that occur without human interference.

When the garden we want is designed such that all the open areas between larger plants are filled with shrubs and perennial ground covers – many of them edible – weeds are less of an issue and maintenance is easier. Since weeds are plants that colonize a space when a niche appears (that is, a space suitable to their growth becomes available), weeding will need to be done, especially in the years it takes for desired plants to completely fill in open ground. One recommendation for maintaining an established garden I have seen more than once is that the gardener should always have a desirable plant ready to place into any open space that occurs.

In an edible forest garden, it’s easy to think that the main plants will be trees, and we select them for their use, usually that will be giving us fruit or nuts. Beneath the tree canopy, there is a subcanopy, trees of shorter stature that can tolerate shade well. These are going to be partial shade and shade lovers, pawpaws for example. In a backyard forest garden, these can be the main features, as semidwarf fruits and pawpaws.

Next smallest plants are the multi-stemmed, vigorous shrubs, which might include plants such as hazelnuts and high bush blueberries. Vines can climb the taller plants, adding more productivity. Then closer to the ‘edge,’ where there is more sunlight, we can find place for some brambles and other small fruits. Then there is the ground cover, annuals and perennials. These can be food plants, but also herbs. Annuals can be used, but somehow they will need annual replacing, whether we put in partially grown plants or they are self-seeding.

Some forest gardeners grow plants referred to as dynamic accumulators, like comfrey, which have long tap roots that draw nutrients from deep in the soil to the vegetation above the soil. They can be periodically cut to use as high nutrient, ‘chop-and-drop’ mulch. And we absolutely need to include plants used to attract and feed beneficial insects – pollinators and predatory insects which parasitize pest species. These can be have a dual purpose as herbs and nutrient accumulators, too.

What would a forest garden look like on a small plot of land? Probably a lot like a patch of forest. I’ve seen this type of gardening referred to as edible landscaping,  a form of ‘permaculture,’ where home landscaping takes on an edible focus. The goal is to plant one’s yard with plants that will not be harvested, ripped out and replanted again the next year. But there is also a place for putting nice looking annual vegetables – multi-colored lettuces, peppers, kale, or zucchini – between the perennials.

The easiest way to start an edible forest garden is with one or two patches, sometimes called guilds. Usually one larger woody plant, situated in a small plot or patch and that become the center of the focus, the centerpiece of the patch. Shrubs and perennials will fill in around it. Perennial vegetables and flowers that attract beneficial insects form the outside perimeter of the patch. The patch eventually takes on a self-sustaining form with healthy soil, good water use and retention, a community of insects you want to control the ones you don’t, no room for weeds, low maintenance, and best of all – Food! In some schemes, there are areas that will support annuals that are rotated between patches. These patches contain the plants selected to complement each other, not just in function, but in how they can nurture each other. Think about nitrogen fixing legumes as these companion plants. One patch can be placed in a damp area and another in a drier area, each with plants that are better suited for the different  soil types in each patch.

Animals are included in any complete ecosystem. I’ve already mentioned insects, which can serve as pollinators. here are some insects that serve as both pollinators and predators of unwanted insects, as well as parasitoids. Toads can be helpful residents of the garden as well. Chickens are also welcome. However, from the time I started learning about forest gardening, with their wonderful descriptions of various food plants, growing in profusion, one in amongst others, my reaction was that I would be building a deer smorgasbord. For them, we have an electric fence. Rabbits, voles and other small animals would support populations of foxes, hawks and owls, if we could be lucky enough to have them living nearby. Otherwise you need to fence them out, as well. There would be fructivorous birds who would appreciate our efforts, and nets over the berries and orchard fruits are the only solution to these hungry neighbors.

Another way of landscaping on medium sized backyards, is to build the garden in concentric circles, with the zones arranged by how often you visit them. Areas of garden that will be visited for frequent harvest or pleasure are planted closer to the back door, and zones beyond them planted by anticipated use.  The innermost zone then will have the landscaping you wish, intermixed with herbs, salad vegetables and annual vegetables. Just beyond this space, there will be patches of trees and shrubs with their associated non-woody perennials and ground covers. If animals are included in the concept, they shouldn’t be farther away from the back door.

All this is a lot of information, but it is meant to give you something to chew on, think about and perhaps try. This is a garden that is planted for the long term. Planning is essential, but it is hard to make a huge mistake.  Swapping out combinations of shorted-lived plants that don’t work around the trees and shrubs is possible. You will find plant combinations that you like and some that don’t, but that is part of the fun and art of forest gardening. Enjoy, and happy, healthy eating!

 

References:

Tobey Hemenway. 2009. Gaia’s Garden. Chelsea Green Publishing Company. White River Junction, VT

Dave Jacke and Eric Toensmeier. 2005. Edible Forests Gardens. Chelsea Green Publishing Company. White River Junction, VT

Other Useful  Books:

Walliser, Jessica. 2014. Attracting Beneficial Insects, A Natural Approach to Pest Control. Timber Press. Portland OR

Lee-Maider, Eric, et al. 2014. Farming with Native Beneficial Insects, Ecological Pest Control Solutions. The Xerces Society.  Storey Publishing. North Adams MA

Adapted from Jacke and Toensmeier:

Essence of a forest:

INPUTS –  Develop the land and garden for

  1. Self-renewing fertility
  2. Sustainable water demand
  3. Minimal herbivory

 

POLYCULTURE: Plants Form an Ecosystems with Self-maintaining Dynamics:

 

YIELD:

  1. highly diverse products – food, (fiber and medicine)
  2. Directed Succession – that means we maintain the ‘forest’ in a state we desire
  3. Maximum Ecological Health

 

 

From Jason Ross:  Key Features of Natural Woodlands That Can Be Applies to Food Forests:

The whole is greater than the sum of its parts: the parts work together in symbiotic relationships for mutual benefits.

Energy is captured and cycled within the system. There is a high diversity of plants, animals and insects.

Seven Plant Layers: Roots, ground cover, herbaceous, shrub, vines, trees and canopy tree.

The edges between trees and clearings are enhanced as they are highly productive and diverse

 

Additional Features and Strategies Employed in a Cultivated Food Forest:

– Main crops are from trees, shrubs and perennial plants

– Self-seeding annual crops are included

– Disease resistant plants and animals suited to the climate are chosen

– Support plants are included to improve and maintain soil fertility, exclude weeds and provide food

and habitat for beneficial insects

– Plants and animals are chosen and placed to provide multiple functions: they each have multiple

yields and roles

– Landscaping and planning is designed for maximum water storage

– Requires few outside inputs after set up

– Low maintenance by systems thinking and designing

Fruit Tree Planting, Training & Pruning Guide

Saturday, March 12th, 2016

Care of your Bare Rooted Plants

Bare rooted plants can be kept in their packaging for a few days. Keep them cool and moist by watering the root ball in the packaging, swishing the water around, and then tipping the water back out.

If there is to be a delay of more than a few days before planting, heel the plants in: Soak the roots for 15 minutes in water with a dash of liquid fertiliser. Place bundles into trenches of moist earth and loosely cover the roots with soil.

 

Planting Preparation

Prep Holes: We recommend that you re-prepare planting holes in March/ April ahead of receiving your trees. Dig in mineral amendments and compost into the topsoil in a 0.6-1.0m diameter and 20cm deep. Deeper is not better!

Animals: Fence from browsing animals otherwise you are buying very expensive animal feed! If Rabbits or Hares are present your trees will need trunk sleeves to 70cm. Fencing animals out? Perhaps you can design this infrastructure to also rotate beneficial animals within the orchard?

Shelter: The orchard site must be sheltered. On a windy site this shelter should be established at least a year ahead. If planting shelter the same year as the fruit trees use very fast species and consider planting not only the perimeter but also within the orchard with shelter trees.

Soil: A depth of around 20cm of topsoil is enough for most fruit trees. If drainage is an issue plant on a shallow mound or a swale berm. Balance soil minerals over the whole orchard area with mineral amendments.

Fruit Tree Planting GuidePlanting Guide

Plant bare root trees and shrubs from Late June till late August.

  1. Soak the roots for 15 minutes before planting in a very dilute liquid fertiliser.
  2. Check the root ball dimensions and dig a hole twice their diameter and only 50mm deeper than the root ball depth (measured from uppermost roots to lowest).
  3. Drive in two 1.5m x 50x50mm Macrocapa stakes 50cm apart in the hole.
  4. Make a pyramid mound of good topsoil in the middle of the planting hole and spread the roots of the fruit tree over this. Adjust the height of the mound so the tree sits with its uppermost roots just below soil level. Check this by putting a straight stake across the planting hole.
  5. Mix good topsoil from the hole with maximum 10% mature compost. More is not better!
  6. Using your fingertips pack this mix around the tree roots in layers, spreading the roots horizontally as you go. Check uppermost roots end up just below soil level. Water well.
  7. Make a generous ‘doughnut’ of compost/manure/seaweed/organic matter around the tree so that it is fed slowly from above. If there are perennial weeds around the tree, such as couch grass, apply a thick layer of newspaper or a double layer of cardboard, (well overlapped), under this doughnut. Cover with a mulch of native and /or deciduous tree chips, this will feed beneficial soil fungi. Keep mulch etc away from the tree trunk.
  8. Tie the tree about half way up with a loop attached to each stake. Allow the tree some movement.
  9. Water well.
  10. We recommend leaving most fruit trees un-pruned at planting. Only head back (cut back) the leader if you intend to create a vase shaped tree (a shape often used for stone fruit) or have a very windy site and want to train your central leader tree from a lower starting height.

Aftercare

Water weekly as needed for the first couple of months and then as needed in dry periods.

Surface feed and mulch each winter (under mulch) and watering in accordance with your soils needs and the plants growth. Establish appropriate groundcover plants to keep weeds, especially grass, suppressed.

Carefully chosen groundcover and companion plants such as Russian and Dwarf Comfrey, Sweet Cicely and Feverfew can help improve soil structure and fertility. They can also aid with pest and disease prevention.

Pinch off all flowers/ fruit in November until tree is growing vigorously and has strong branches, usually in their third summer you can leave a small crop on. Remove all growth from below the graft union.

Fruit Tree Training & Pruning

Most fruit trees will naturally adopt a central leader shape, with a strong central trunk and near horizontal branches radiating off this. Stone fruit are usually trained as a vase shape (see below).

Central Leader Fruit TreeCentral Leader

Year One: Leave the trunk un-pruned. Prune off any branches below 1m and any competing leaders. In November remove any developing fruit and train down all branches so that their junction with the trunk is near to ninety degrees and the branch is near to horizontal. Tree training rubber bands, twine or notched spacers can be used for this job.

Year Two: August, prune off any branches below 1m and any competing leaders. Prune out completely any dead, diseased or damaged (crossing) branches. Prune out any fruit spurs on or close to the trunk and any on the lower side of branches. Training aids from November may be removed now if the branches stay in the horizontal position. In November thin out all fruit except one or two near the trunk.

Year Three: Repeat winter pruning, take out whole branches as necessary to create well spaced branches up the trunk. You may leave more fruit on this year if the tree is sturdy. From now on thin all fruit to one or two fruit per spur.

Vase Shape Fruit TreeVase Shape Trees

Year One: Head back the main trunk to around 1m, either to some good side shoots or good buds. Prune off any branches below 0.8m and any competing leaders (side shoots growing too vertically). In November remove any developing fruit and train down all branches so that their junction with the trunk is near to ninety degrees and the branch is near to 45%. Tree training rubber bands, twine or notched spacers can be used for this job.

Year Two: August, select four strong branches to be your main vase structure. Prune off any branches below 0.8m and any vertical shoots surplus to your four main branches. Prune out completely any dead, diseased or damaged (crossing) branches. Prune out any fruit spurs on or close to the trunk and any on the lower side of branches. Training aids from November may be removed now if the branches stay in the 45% position. In November thin out all fruit except one or two near the trunk.

Year Three: Repeat winter pruning, take out whole branches as necessary to create well spaced vase of four branches from the main trunk. You may leave more fruit on this year if the tree is sturdy. From now on thin all fruit to one or two fruit per spur.

Human Nature Food Systems Design – Stefan Sobkowiak Workshops

Wednesday, May 27th, 2015

In this article I reflect on the Beyond Organic Tour workshops we hosted in April 2015. These were led by Stefan Sobkowiak of Miracle Farms, and covered the principles and concepts used in his Permaculture Orchard.

Reflecting on Stefan Sobkowiak’s workshops in April this year.

It was a great pleasure to host Stefan at Habitate Farm for a workshop on fruit tree training and soils. Thanks to all involved for organising the tour and hosting Stefan, Doreen and James here in Dunedin.

IMG_0970When you are busy on the land it’s a welcome inspiration to have a teacher such as Stefan come and reinforce the principles of permaculture through workshops in your bioregion.

We need well documented examples of permaculture systems and The Permaculture Orchard is probably the best film documenting a commercial permaculture orchard.

Stefan has set up and runs an orchard that produces a quality food for a sizeable customer base.

His customers join as members, then enjoy visiting this beautiful farm, meeting each other and browsing the aisles (rows) to gather food (his is a members-only U-Pick Farm).

For me permaculture is as much about making beautiful inspiring places as it is about the quantity of food produced, so this aspect of his farm was great to see. Flowers are grown, for example, in amongst the productive plants and offered free for customers to pick, adding further delight to the diversity of edibles in each row.

What has made Stefan’s farm successful?

I would say systems design. The basis of permaculture is the conscious design of systems which overlap to form a constructed ecosystem inspired by observed natural ecologies. Stefan has clear, explainable system patterns, that allow for patterned replication and expansion across the farm. Examples are the Nitrogen Fixer-Apple-Pear/Plum trio’s, the ripening-time ordered rows, the tree to shrub to perennial planting patterns, the animal rotations through the rows, the mowing patterns and many more.

One of the great achievements is to have taken the benefits of a forest ecology (layers, diversity, predator / beneficial insect and bird habitat, pioneer / support species) and to have patterned them into a system of rows, allowing for ease of management and customer U-pick harvest (the needs of human nature).

The mulch layer

Looking to the mulch layer we find the key to what has allowed all of this to happen with minimal maintenance. A plastic mulch. A simple logical solution and yet so mind-bendingly hard to come to grips with for those of us that associate plastic with environmental degradation.

In Stefan’s system it is allowing large scale diversity and production. Stefan’s is a commercial operation,with irrigation, posts, wires and overhead sprinklers for frost fighting, there is a lot of infrastructure there, why not add a layer of plastic and be rid of untold hours of weeding and instead use that energy for establishing and harvesting the diverse and abundant produce?

There may be some good reasons. I am sceptical as to whether this system would work as well in a coastal New Zealand climate where grass and other weeds grow all year round. So many books and now movies on permaculture are from either sub-tropical or continental climates, we have to take the principles of these ideas and examples and not necessarily the techniques. I hope someone, (including myself), tests this plastic system in a coastal New Zealand climate. Unfortunately I have seen too many examples over the years of plastic or weed mat put down permanently on the ground only to be overrun with grass and buried, and then the weeds we are trying to avoid, grow back on top. I have had to remove plastic layers buried amongst ornamental gardens, tangled with roots. It’s a difficult, destructive job.

Stefan has observed worms moving organic matter through holes to underneath his plastic. In local ornamental examples that I have seen this has not happened fast enough, the garden looks brilliant for the first ten years and then plants start to decline, the soil below the plastic layer is starving for organic matter from above.

In this, his latest video, Stefan shows the difference in growth rate where plastic was not used, no competition does make a huge difference.

An alternate system that we are using for orchard/food forest establishment is based on Martin Crawford’s system of using woven weed mat.

We put a strip of weed mat each side of a newly planted row for one or two years and then lift it and immediately plant heavily with carefully chosen varieties. The weed mat if carefully moved can be used again and again to kick start more orchard / food forest rows – perhaps a useful system up to a small commercial scale.

We have a side by side trial with a row that has support species planted and is minimally weeded and only roughly mulched. Growth in the weed matted row is at least thirty percent more after the first year.

Because of our non-stop grass growth the use of animal grazing as the primary understory layer of production has strong appeal. This limits under tree diversity but gives us important animal yields.

Training vs Pruning

I am sold on the tree training techniques that Stefan introduced us to. They are brilliantly systematic and solve many of the issues that I have had with trying to combine heading back of branches and only half training branches down. I look forward to trialling these on new trees and renovating old trees to this system.

Stefan talked a lot about autumn tree planting for good establishment of trees. This year through my nursery I am offering an earlier delivery of our certified organic bare root fruit trees (the end of June) and several customers from Stefan’s workshop have requested this. Hopefully the apple trees believe that autumn is here by then as they are still in full green leaf as I write in mid-May.

I have always pruned back my nursery trees before delivery to around one metre so that they grow strongly and branch low for my home gardener customers. I will leave them un-pruned for anyone wanting to use Stefan’s training system, if so I think you need to ensure little competition, good fertility and consistent moisture to achieve the growth and branching required. Growing Fruit Trees: Novel Concepts and Practices for Successful Care and Management covers the techniques Stefan described.

I look forward to many more well documented evolutions towards our shared vision of beautiful, diverse, productive, perennial polycultures.

Jason Ross

 

Link to the article on the Beyond Organic NZ Tour Website:

Human Nature Food Systems Design

Neighbourhood Nirvana

Monday, July 8th, 2013

NZ Gardener Article - Neighbourhood Nirvana

It was really nice to have Robert and Robyn Guyton over recently, they were quite taken with how my kids graze from our family’s edible garden. Robert said he might like to write something about the diversity of plants we enjoy in our little section, but I soon forgot his comments until folk started telling me he had written an article in New Zealand Gardener. Check out the July issue, Robert is a great writer and a great explorer of the wilder side of food gardening.

Sometimes at the dinner table I am playing the role of trying to get my kids to eat some salad when I remember, that actually, during the day, between tree climbing, making bug houses and trampolining, they have been tearing off brussel sprouts and chunks of cabbage from the garden beds and munching them happily raw.

I never thought that our edible garden would be such a big part of our kids outdoor play time, or that they would be self grazing from it! So I suggest to anyone going to have kids to integrate edibles into their backyard play space. Your kids will end up teaching you a few things about the joys of an edible garden. “Dad have some of this kale it so sweet!”

Early Summer Tasks in the Orchard

Friday, November 16th, 2012

Tydeman's Late OrangeWe have just thinned the very good fruit set of apples from the nursery cordon, otherwise it would have been very overloaded. This 7 year old espalier of 38 varieties of apples is where we get our cuttings (scion wood) from.

 

Early Summer Tasks in the Orchard

It is a beautiful time of year out in the orchard. We enjoyed some good conversation and garden tip sharing recently when we were out working in the Waitati Open Orchards. Here are a few tips for timely activities for early summer in the orchard.

  • It is worth doing a quick pull up of the weeds that have taken hold in the spring flush from the mulch under your trees and bushes. Before they become monsters!
  • Thin the fruit that has set, apples to about two fruits per cluster, take the centre ‘king’ out first. My big ‘Wilson’s Early’ plum set so much fruit last year I just shook it to thin the fruit.
  • Thin new shoots on raspberries of both summer and autumn varieties.
  • Summer pruning can start now; this is good for vigorous established plants, encouraging them to fruit. Take out young crowding growth that is not needed for new branches. Great for gooseberries, and over vigorous fruit trees, such as those out of control plums!
  • Prep your strawberry beds with pine needles over compost. When they start running, ruthlessly take out any runners you don’t want for new plants, you’ll get a lot more fruit.
  • Cover your fruit with bird netting, consider covering the lot from a permanent perimeter fence that can then contain chickens in the winter to weed and fertilise the area for you.
  • Chop and drop the dynamic accumulator, nitrogen fixing, ground cover and companion herbs, such as sweet cicely and comfrey, under your fruits. This feeds the soil, keeps weeds at bay.
  • Make a mix of vegetable and herb seeds and scattering them into gaps in the fruit, vegetable and even the ornamental garden. It is a pleasure to harvest the succession of abundance that follows. Try: daikon, rocket, mizuna, lettuce, carrot, silver beet, coriander, dandelion, miners lettuce, red Russian Kale, flat leaf parsley…

Old gooseberries with companion plants chopped and dropped beneath them to feed the soil.